There’s a Maltese tradition: take a day trip to Comino in the peak of summer — then spend the whole year remembering the crowds of people splashing in the water or sunbathing on the rocks, which made it impossible to actually relax... only to go and do it again the next year. I always want to ask these summer martyrs: “Ever tried spring?” The same goes for autumn, by the way...
The islands of Comino and Cominotto
Photo: Svetlana Vella
Visiting the smallest inhabited island in the Maltese archipelago during the best seasons of the year is always a good idea — and here’s why:
Well, you just can’t do without them!
Photo: Svetlana Vella
1. Nowhere will you appreciate solitude and open space more than in Malta. Living even for a short time in one of the most densely populated and heavily built-up countries in the world makes you long for peace and space — and grow tired of the noise and visual clutter (excluding, of course, most historical landmarks). With fewer wild areas every year and more people trying to escape into them, it’s either dreaming of another planet or seeking out remote corners of the archipelago where you can recharge — alone or with close friends.
Comino is perfect for that. Though traditionally seen as a summer destination, in the off-season it’s nearly deserted — and, thankfully, still mostly undeveloped.
Mixta caves on Comino
Photo: Svetlana Vella
2. Many foreigners who move to Malta quickly begin to miss forests and rivers — things the island lacks entirely. Used to green abundance back home, they either move again or begin to cherish every little tree, bush, flower, or blade of grass. (Note: 2018 was an “exceptionally fruitful” year for tree-cutting.) Summer becomes a dreaded season, as much of Malta is scorched bare. Locals often consider wild plants weeds — ħaġar ħażin — and even use chemicals to clear the roadside in spring.
Comino escapes this fate — mostly because there aren’t really “roads” in the usual sense. Until the summer heat sets in, the island stays relatively green, and since few visit in spring, the flowers and grasses remain untouched.
Blessed are the hikers — they shall
witness Comino’s true beauty in the off-season.
Photo: Svetlana Vella
3. In April 2015, Malta held a referendum to decide whether to ban spring bird hunting. The result disappointed nature lovers: spring hunting remained legal, at least for the foreseeable future.
Those who prefer the outdoors to promenades, restaurants or — heaven forbid — Paceville, Malta’s nightlife mecca, have likely encountered hunters and poachers. Not only are they a nuisance to conservationists, but also to landowners and even law-abiding hunters. There are few places to escape them… except perhaps Comino, which has protected status. There, you can roam freely and peacefully.
4. For those who think walks without a goal are pointless, Comino has more than enough attractions — both natural and man-made — some dating back centuries.
Let’s start with Wied Skalanova, a dramatic valley that’s often overlooked. Most people’s idea of Comino stops at the Blue Lagoon — indeed, a stunning spot, but one that has become the symbol of mass tourism. The Blue Lagoon is more than just a beach: it’s a semi-submerged valley. Step just a few hundred meters away from the battleground of sunbeds, kiosks, and cruise boats, and a completely different world opens up.
Wied Skalanova, which a Maltese poet
once compared to a submerged skull
Photo: Svetlana Vella
As for man-made landmarks, Comino boasts some impressive ones. The island is dominated by the St. Mary’s Tower, built by Grand Master Wignacourt of the Knights of St. John as part of the island’s early warning system — relaying “fire signals” to the Red Tower in Mellieħa. The Knights also built the St. Mary’s Battery, where you can wander, peek through gun ports, and rest beside cannons.
"Battery, fire!" — but no longer firing…
Photo: Svetlana Vella
The British later built a quarantine hospital on Comino for soldiers from wars around the world. You’ll also find traces of daily life: a church, a bakery, a police station, a pig farm, a cemetery… and the Comino Hotel, popular with honeymooners and divers.
Even here, parking is a challenge
Photo: Svetlana Vella
© Svetlana Vella (May 2015 – July 2018)
Originally published in the magazine “My Malta”
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